Day 1 :Firsts
First Ovoo : a pile of rocks at the top of mountain necks to bring luck, safe travels, health and prosperity. The custom is to walk around it 3 times clockwise and deposit 3 rocks as you go. The pieces of clothes, in 5 colours which symbolise : Blue for the sky, yellow for buddhism, red for fire, white for milk and green for grass. If Mongolia had to be summed up in 5 words, it would be those.
First Mongolian archetype : For our first lunch, we stopped by this lake where a herd of horses were having a refreshing dip. Then came their herder on his tiny little horse with wooden saddle and all. We had arrived.
First Mongolian landscape : Granite mountains in the background with tranquil lake in the foreground.
First touristic site : A rock monastery which was mostly destroyed in Soviet times. Also our first encounter with the big blue sky.
First Ger : We slept in quite a few gers, the traditional nomadic dwelling but this one was the best decorated one by far. We even had a Mona Lisa carpet hanging on one side. There are many rules associated with Gers and we innocently trampled all over them. We tried though.
Day 2 : camels and Nadam horses
Most Mongolian water comes from the ground and these wells are all over the place.
A few moments after this photos was taken, an enormous hailstorm came over us. We all huddled inside the car and Boogii, our irreplaceable guide jumped into the back of the van and cooked us one of her many delicious meal from there.
Our first camel in the landscape around sunset.
We stopped by a Ger camp to ask for the best road to our destination. The hailstorm caused many rivers to form along our way which made travel difficult. The Horses in this photo are Nadam Horses which will be raced by young children during Mongolia's biggest yearly festival.
Day 3 : The white stuppa
A family assembling a new ger. It takes about 1 1/2 hours to get the whole thing together. Not quite as quick as our little tent but not too bad really.
Boogii, our guide at a site called "the White Stuppa". A series of undulating cliffs which were quite stunning and the site of many archeological expeditions as it contains dinosaur bones.
Mongolian cities are nothing to be proud of. We passed through a few to get supplies and they are all uglier than each other. Still, I liked that girl's slightly surreal waitress uniform in these drab surroundings.
Day 4 : Ice canyon
No Chrises were injured in the taking of this photograph. On the other hand, there was a lot of awkward slipping around going on trying to navigate this ice canyon formed over winter in between two mountains.
Our crew of 6 safely off the ice.
Another lunch spot which makes our cartoony blue van look very tiny.
Antoine and Corinne, two frenchies hanging around our Ger camp in the Gobi desert with background of camels and sand dunes.
Day 5 : camels in the Gobi
The five mercenaries.
Juju on the ridge.
Chris for Lacoste.
Rippled Sand dunes
Day 6 : Flaming cliffs
"Flaming cliffs". One could say that it is not unlike the Australian outback.
There are about 2 road signs in all of Mongolia and that is one of them.
Our Ger camp in the distance. We were able to watch a World cup game from here. You can't stop progress.
Day 7 : Crossing the river...or not
Lunchtime, before the day took a turn for the worst.
You could say that we had a slight problem crossing this river.
Looking out to the van from the safety of the shore, waiting for help.
Help came in the form of many men and steel cables connected to a truck which eventually managed to winch our drenched van and belongings back to shore.
After an eventful day, we were rewarded with another beautiful camping spot and sunset. We all drank a fair amount of vodka that night to drown our nerves which is much better than a drowned car.
Day 8 : A rainbow
Chris being happy which is always a pleasure to see and happens often in nature.
Back in greener countryside, we were greeted with the most beautiful rainbow I have ever seen and to top it, you could actually see the whole arc just above our car. Lucky travels from now on.
A river we didn't cross.
Day 9 : Horses and waterfalls
Mongolian horses are really small but they are nervous little creatures. Mine was especially small and had trouble keeping up. I think I was too big for him but he tried and did lots of trotting. We even managed to gallop a little. Chris galloped like the wind.
We went to this waterfall on our horses. The man in the photo is our horseriding guide, he taught me to say "Tchu Tchu" which was meant to make my horse go faster. Sometimes, it worked.
A rather suggestive lunch.
Antoine the Nissart (we went to the same high school) and Chris went riding some more in the afternoon while Corinne and I did some yoga surrounded by baby yaks and little girls.
This dish has an unpronounceable name but tasted mighty delicious. the pieces of goat meet are cooked surrounded by hot stones. We ate it all and anyway, we didn't have a choice or we would have been in trouble. We did get into a little bit of trouble because we couldn't suck our bones clean Mongolian style but we tried.
Day 10 : Karakorum
Baby something in our Ger camp. At first we thought they were baby yaks but they are most likely goats.
Another river we didn't cross, taking a long detour instead.
Buddhist monastery in Karakorum where we offended the tour guide because we were too tired from driving for hours to listen to her (slightly boring) explanations...
Day 11 : The wild horses and back to U.B.
On the way back to Ulan-Bator, we stopped by a National Park which preserves Peschwary horses (or something like that). They are wild and never come in contact with humans. They are born white and turn sand coloured when they grow up. We were quite lucky to spot a few.
Afterwards, we drove back to U.B. and all had a wonderful Korean feast together to top off a really truly wonderful experience.
I hope this made you want to visit Mongolia, it's worth the detour!
My goodness, what a fascinating read like a "roman photo" or a "bande dessinée" with just the right amount and quality of text to make perfect sense of your pix.
ReplyDeleteOf course exclaiming "What a small world!" would be an understatement with respect to your Calmette classmate.
As usual, your photos are magnificent and though it may be the least scenic, I can't stop thinking about the waitress one because of the very odd juxtaposition of her impeccable and rather formal outfit against the drab no man's land type backdrop. It reminded me of similar sights in RSA.
As Paulu remarked, we wonder how many niçois even were in Mongolia when you were there. Good thing Antoine wasn't from Beau-Site Votre Réussite. I hope you discussed le Kaïd de Vernier and other local legends.
ReplyDeleteIt's me again wanting to say that the pic of you on Day 7 flying the red scarf reminds me of the work of art you photographed at the Modern in Fort Worth:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.themodern.org/f_html/swenson.html
Also you jump like a real cheerleader when you see a beautiful sunset (and I know what I'm talking about after 5 years in Texas).