No need for an introduction
How can you not love Paris ? It took me about 5 minutes to love, hate and love this amazing city again. There is nothing like it and thank God for that.
Chris' first taste of Paris came as a crash course in basic survival techniques in the centre of Paris. Our train arrived in Gare de l'Est from where we had a 15km cycle to Bois-Colombes, in the North Western suburbs, where we were invited to stay for the first couple days. After spending the last 5 weeks riding around Europe, it came as a surprise to be reminded of Hanoi, Vietnam as we wove our way between double-parked delivery trucks, pedestrians, scooters and aggressive drivers all around us. We made it safe and sound but certain we would be using public transport rather than our bikes during our stay. We spent the rest of the afternoon getting acquainted with Sophie (my father's GF), her daughter Myriam, a bed (a luxury we had not experienced since St-Petersbourg) and showering barefoot (no thongs/flipflops) which, although not amazing, is still worth noting.
Has anything been more photographed?
On our first real day in the capital, we launched ourselves headfirst into the bottomless pit of Parisian "must-sees". Chris picked our starting point (the Eiffel Tower) and I took it from there. From the Tocadero, we walked down towards the Seine and followed it, passing the dense Green wall of the Musee du Quai Branly, towards the Place de la Concorde. We went all the way up the Champs-Elysees to the Arc de triomphe and back down following the rue du Faubourg-St-Honore, drooling in front of the windows of all the most exclusive designer stores in Paris (the world?). We circled the Place Vendome, an oasis of diamonds and rubies in the heart of the city, and walked down to the Jardin des Tuileries to rest our sore feet for a while.
So Frenchie !
We walked down the centre towards the magnificient Louvre which we traversed to end up in front of the church St-Germain l'Auxerrois. We took the Rue de Rivoli and arrived in Chatelet-Les-Halles from which we quickly diverted to end up on Rue Montorgueuil, a lovely old fashionned street full of mouth-watering patisseries, butchers, traiteurs and cafes. We sat at a terrace, having our first french coffee, watching people walk by, going about their daily lives. Feeling tired and satisfied, we got into the closest metro station at Etienne Marcel and made our way back to the burbs.
Le "tout Paris"
With well band-aided toes, we attacked our second day very much the same way, straight on. We began with a quick walk-through of the school where I began studying Architecture many moons ago. The impressive building of the Beaux-Arts was in its usual classical state of disrepair although I did note that the photocopy machines appeared to be functionning so they might have gotten a few things under control since my departure. We then explored the area around St-Germain des pres, its narrow twisting streets filled with art galleries and cafes. We took the long way around heading towards the Tour Montparnasse, the biggest planning mistake in Paris with the best view where we had organised to visit the offices of the UIA and meet Catherine H. for a lovely lunch à la Francaise (there was steak tartare involved).
Beautiful AND delicious
We pursued our exploration of the Quartier Latin with a walk through the Jardin du Luxembourg looking as beautiful as ever, followed by a coffee rue de la Montagne-Ste-Genevieve. As we walked back towards the Seine, we walked through the enormous cathedral Notre-Dame-de-Paris. Back outside, it was starting to show signs of rain so we headed towards the nearest metro at St-Michel only to fall face to face with Fred, an old-time friend from Nice, whom I thought was in Saudi Arabia. We, of course had a beer, probably the most expensive half-liter of the golden liquid you'll ever have and shared stories of the last few months, eventful on both sides. Eventually, we went back to Bois-Colombes where we gave Sophie a little potted fig tree reminiscent of the Sydney ones as a thanking gift for having us for the first couple days back in the Motherland.
The old bookcases along the Seine
For the time being, this resumes our pavement pounding activities and, as predicted, we have already ticked off long walks, coffee and friends with lots more to come in the following days.
mothe, I made these explanations very detailed so that you could retrace our steps and pretend you were with us. I wish you were!
ReplyDeleteOh my Sweet, I had tears in my eyes already by your rue du Faubourg St. Honoré stop where I lodged in '75-'76 taking the métro at Ternes and unknowingly crossing paths with Lolo, I the nerdy nerd and he the über cool moustachu.
ReplyDeleteI have thoroughly enjoyed this entire parcours and also wish I were with you in my cheetah Docs.
Of course I'm not, but your writing and photograpy have reached such great heights of description (and humor) that while at the ranch, I feel as if I am in the most beautiful city in my world.
Was it the smell of garlic that drew you to the rue du Montorgueil precisely where Jérémy will be wining and dining you at L'Escargot or was it the desire to study the menu ahead of time?
I'm taking the liberty of adding a few "musts":
- la Sainte Chapelle for the most spectacular stained glass anywhere,
- rue des Rosiers for some Yom Kippur atmosphere (and perhaps you can find a Power Ranger's kippa for Paultru),
- le Parc Monceau where you can share a few Mommy stories with Christo since it was one of her favorite places,
- Belleville to show him your former digs and maybe catch a Chinese wedding or shoot-out,
- Passy to see the former UIA nestled in BCBG-ville.
Thank you so very much for this wonderful account which leaves a puddle on my keyboard ...
I'm glad you enjoyed this first account. We are having such a great time here and we are already starting to have an agenda de ministre so the fun is not about to end. As for your suggestions, I agree about the Ste-Chapelle and we will try going tomorrow morning in fact, we are heading to the Belleville area tonight to have dinner with the Malaquais bande so we will go early for a pre-dinner tour and we won't miss the rue des Rosiers just before Yom Kippur. Good times ahead!
ReplyDeleteHey! There's someone in the "So Frenchie!" photo pulling along your foodshopping caddie --Au voleur !
ReplyDeleteI forgot to say that your I.M. Pei pic looks like a work by M.C. Escher and also that the tartes aux citron at Central Market are looking pretty lame compared to your patisserie vitrine shot.
Enjoy all the wonderful retrouvailles.
I had lunch with Helena yesterday to swap the goods, your computer is on its way! I wish I could somehow fold myself up into its case because it looks like its going to have some pretty fun times when it gets to Paris!
ReplyDeleteYeah, I can imagine. They will have a blast and it will be great to hear what they did when all the places are still fresh in our minds. Thanks for getting this organised, we're very grateful!
ReplyDeleteWhy don't you guys just stay in Paris till they get there? Would be great!
ReplyDeleteI thought of another "must" for the list:
ReplyDeleteA day trip to Versailles to show your Prince Charming.
honey you're home!
ReplyDeletecongratulations on cycling all that way xx
you haven't been forgotten, sorry for being MIA so much happening that an email wouldn't cut it. Can i say i am looking forward to your reunion with lappy so that we can skype, and talk and laugh together again!
p.s. kT had a baby called Heathcliff, Meaghan informed me that it was from Wuthering Heights... i just thought it rhymed it wyclef
Cazaroo, Chlaure are currently staying with your Girl Crush and are computah-less for the week but I'm certain you'll catch up when lappy arrives.
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to hear how the very first encounter between Christophe and snails in garlic sauce went (Jérémy's wedding prezzie).
she's so beautiful!
ReplyDeletei'm so glad you get to stop peddling for awhile!
big skyp-a-thon when you are settled back in nice.
meanwhile i'll email you (& fro!) some pictures of my half newphew!
good golly
ReplyDeletei just realised i read that wrong and it was fro writing not chlaure!
sorry
and thanks for keeping me informed fro!xx
No worries, my dear.
ReplyDeleteWe can now look forward to some bloggie updates from Nissa la Bella.